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seedbox/docs/hardware/wiring.md
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Seedbox v0.1 + firmware, generic kit/synth, ROOT/SCALE pages
First commit of the repo. Contents beyond the v0.1 simulator and layout:

- Full Pico 2 W firmware (firmware/app, drivers, engine port, host test).
- BANK page and 404 mode A/B removed; learned pads play exactly what was learned.
- 404/MiniFreak renamed to KIT/SYNTH throughout (jacks, code, sim, docs,
  layout labels; wiring rebuilt).
- ROLL returns to page select after a re-roll; a freshly learned track turns on.
- LCD contrast 66.
- ROOT and SCALE pages: 21 scales, AUTO = the seed picks; global and sticky.

Intended music change: the scale table grew from 8 to 21 and AUTO picks from
all of them, so every seed's scale changed. Vectors regenerated with
npm run vectors, plus new key-override cases. Flash record is now version 2.

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 5.5 <noreply@anthropic.com>
2026-10-11 20:39:36 +03:00

12 KiB
Raw Blame History

Wiring

One stripboard carries the Pico and the MIDI circuits. Everything on the panel (screen, encoder, pots, buttons, jacks) connects to it with hookup wire.

Board positions are strip letter + hole number. For example V4 is strip V, hole 4, counted from the left with the parts facing you. Strips run left to right: A at the top (the USB edge), then Z, AA, AB at the bottom.

The interactive version, with the same drawings, is tools/wiring.html. Generated from hardware/layout.js.

Wire map: panel to board

Every panel wire and the board hole it lands in: strip letter, then hole number counted from the opto end.

Wire map

Part Lug Wire Board hole
Buttons Row 1 · KICK, KICK 2, SNARE yellow D2
Row 2 · HAT, HAT 16, PERC, GHOST yellow E2
Row 3 · BASS, MEL A, MEL B, PAD yellow G2
Col 1 · KICK, HAT, BASS (diode band side) green I2
Col 2 · KICK 2, HAT 16, MEL A green J2
Col 3 · SNARE, PERC, MEL B green K2
Col 4 · GHOST, PAD green L2
SEED one lug yellow Q2
RUN toggle middle lug (it sits in the button grid, row 1 / col 4) yellow S2
SEED + RUN ground: SEED other lug, RUN one outer lug black AA6
Encoder VCC (3.3 V, never 5 V) red AB4
GND black AA4
SW green P2
SIB green O2
SIA green N2
ENERGY pot middle lug blue J27
DRIFT pot middle lug blue I27
Pots right lugs, both (3.3 V) red AB25
left lugs, both (AGND) black H27
LCD 1 · VCC (3.3 V) red AB23
2 · GND black AA23
3 · SCE blue S27
4 · RST blue N27
5 · D/C blue O27
6 · DN (MOSI) blue P27
7 · SCLK blue Q27
8 · LED, through a 330 Ω resistor (if dark, move to any AA hole) red AB22
MIDI IN jack tip blue W1
ring blue Y1
OUT KIT jack tip blue X26
ring red V22
sleeve black AA22
OUT SYNTH jack tip blue U31
ring red V31
sleeve black AA31

Wire colours

Colour Role
Red 3.3 V and the MIDI OUT ring lugs
Black ground
Yellow button rows, SEED, RUN
Green button columns, encoder
Blue screen, pots, MIDI signals
Grey short links on the board

If your spools are other colours, keep the roles and rename them. Red and black for power and ground matter most.

Board · parts side

Stripboard, parts side

  • Size: 34 holes × 28 strips, about 86 × 71 mm.
  • Pico: sits in two 20-pin female headers with pins 1 and 40 on strip A. Its USB end is flush with the top edge of the board, and the micro-USB socket reaches just past it.
  • Mounting: lay the board on the box floor with that edge against the back wall, behind the USB slot. The socket is about 41 mm from the board's left edge.
  • Pads: the numbered dots P1 … P35 are where off-board wires solder.

Board · copper side, for cutting

Stripboard, copper side

This view is flipped: hole 1 is on the right.

How to cut:

  • Use a 3–4 mm drill bit turned by hand, or a spot-face cutter.

  • Check each cut with the meter's continuity beeper.

  • Hole 6 on strips U to Y (5 cuts)

  • Hole 14 on strips U to X (4 cuts)

  • Hole 16 on strips A to T (20 cuts)

  • Hole 23 on strip X (1 cut)

  • Hole 25 on strips U to W (3 cuts)

Power strips along the bottom

  • Z: 5 V from the Pico's VBUS. Only the opto uses it.
  • AA: ground.
  • AB: 3.3 V from the Pico's 3V3 pin.

Every red wire to the panel starts on AB. Every black wire starts on AA, except the pots, which use the AGND strip.

Part Value Holes Note
Pico 2W 2 × 20-pin female header A13–T13 and A20–T20 (pins 1–20 down the left, 40–21 down the right) USB end flush with the top edge of the board, past strip A
U1 6N137 U5–X5, U8–X8 6N137 in a DIP-8 socket. Notch toward strip U, pin 1 at hole U5. Pin 7 (enable) is tied to pin 8 by the U10–V10 link.
R1 220 Ω V2 – Y2 MIDI IN current limit. 3-hole span: stand it upright, or use a small ⅛ W part flat. If learning ever misses notes, use 150 Ω.
D1 1N4148 V4 – W4 Band (cathode) on V4, the opto LED anode side. Stands upright (1-hole span).
R2 1 kΩ W10 – AB10 Opto output pull-up to 3.3 V
C1 100 nF U11 – X11 6N137 supply bypass, right beside the chip: U11 is its 5 V (pin 8) strip, X11 its GND (pin 5) strip. Required. Fit it after the beep test.
R4 10 Ω X21 – X25 MIDI OUT KIT, TX line (RC). Lies flat along strip X, across the cut at X23 (4-hole span, ¼ W fits). SEED hangs right above it.
R5 33 Ω ½ W V19 – AB19 MIDI OUT KIT, 3.3 V line (RA). ½ W: a mono plug in the jack shorts it to ground.
R6 10 Ω U28 – Y28 MIDI OUT SYNTH, TX line (RC)
R7 33 Ω ½ W V30 – AB30 MIDI OUT SYNTH, 3.3 V line (RA). ½ W, same reason as R5.
Link wire A34 – Z34 5 V (VBUS) to the 5 V strip
Link wire E32 – AB32 3V3 to the 3V3 strip
Link wire R33 – AA33 GND to the GND strip
Link wire U13 – Z13 opto VCC to 5 V
Link wire U10 – V10 opto enable (pin 7) to VCC (pin 8): the 6N137 output only works with pin 7 high
Link wire X12 – AA12 opto GND to GND
Link wire W9 – B9 opto out to GP1 (MIDI RX), strip B
Link wire A15 – X15 GP0 (TX KIT) to strip X (R4), straight down under the Pico between its headers
Link wire F14 – Y14 GP4 (TX SYNTH) to strip Y (R6), straight down under the Pico between its headers

Off-board wires

Pad Board hole Colour Pico pin / signal Goes to
P1 Y1 blue via R1 to opto MIDI IN jack · ring (pin 4)
P2 W1 blue opto cathode MIDI IN jack · tip (pin 5)
P3 X26 blue via R4 (10 Ω) from GP0 OUT KIT jack · tip (pin 5)
P4 V22 red via R5 (33 Ω) from 3V3 OUT KIT jack · ring (pin 4)
P5 AA22 black GND strip OUT KIT jack · sleeve (pin 2)
P6 U31 blue via R6 (10 Ω) from GP4 OUT SYNTH jack · tip (pin 5)
P7 V31 red via R7 (33 Ω) from 3V3 OUT SYNTH jack · ring (pin 4)
P8 AA31 black GND strip OUT SYNTH jack · sleeve (pin 2)
P9 N27 blue GP21 LCD · RST (pin 4)
P10 S27 blue GP17 LCD · SCE (pin 3)
P11 O27 blue GP20 LCD · D/C (pin 5)
P12 P27 blue GP19 LCD · DN/MOSI (pin 6)
P13 Q27 blue GP18 LCD · SCLK (pin 7)
P14 AB23 red 3V3 strip LCD · VCC (pin 1)
P15 AA23 black GND strip LCD · GND (pin 2)
P16 AB22 red 3V3 strip LCD · LED (pin 8) through 330 Ω
P17 N2 green GP10 Encoder · SIA
P18 O2 green GP11 Encoder · SIB
P19 P2 green GP12 Encoder · SW
P20 AB4 red 3V3 strip Encoder · VCC
P21 AA4 black GND strip Encoder · GND
P22 J27 blue GP26 ENERGY pot · middle lug
P23 I27 blue GP27 DRIFT pot · middle lug
P24 AB25 red 3V3 strip Pots · right lugs (chain both)
P25 H27 black AGND Pots · left lugs (chain both)
P26 Q2 yellow GP13 SEED · one lug
P27 S2 yellow GP14 RUN toggle · middle lug
P28 AA6 black GND strip Panel ground bus · SEED other lug, RUN one outer lug
P29 D2 yellow GP2 Matrix row 1 (KICK, KICK 2, SNARE)
P30 E2 yellow GP3 Matrix row 2 (HAT, HAT 16, PERC, GHOST)
P31 G2 yellow GP5 Matrix row 3 (BASS, MEL A, MEL B, PAD)
P32 I2 green GP6 Matrix column 1 (KICK, HAT, BASS)
P33 J2 green GP7 Matrix column 2 (KICK 2, HAT 16, MEL A)
P34 K2 green GP8 Matrix column 3 (SNARE, PERC, MEL B)
P35 L2 green GP9 Matrix column 4 (GHOST, PAD)

Panel wiring

Button matrix, seen from the back

Button matrix

Each button:

  • One lug goes to its row wire (yellow), daisy-chained along the row.
  • The other lug goes through a diode to its column wire (green), daisy-chained down the column.
  • The diode's band points to the column. Solder the diodes straight onto the button lugs and sleeve them. 1N4148, 1N4448 or any small-signal diode works.

11 track buttons, each with its own diode, plus D1 on the board: 12 diodes. GHOST is wired at row 2 / column 4. The RUN toggle sits in the grid's row 1 / column 4 spot but isn't part of the matrix, so row 1's wire stops at SNARE and column 4 starts at GHOST.

Drawn from behind the panel, the side you solder on: KICK is top-right, RUN top-left.

MIDI jacks: 3.5 mm TRS, Type A

TRS jacks

Jack Tip (pin 5) Ring (pin 4) Sleeve (pin 2)
MIDI IN P2 P1 stays empty
OUT KIT P3 P4 P5
OUT SYNTH P6 P7 P8
  • Jack type: use stereo (TRS) jacks; mono ones have no ring.
  • Lug order: it differs between jack models. Find the tip, ring and sleeve lugs with the meter and a plug inserted.
  • Cables: Type A is the MIDI standard, so a plain stereo 3.5 mm cable goes straight to another Type A device (e.g. SP-404MKII). A DIN device (e.g. MiniFreak) needs a TRS-to-DIN adapter that says Type A. A Type B one swaps tip and ring and gives silence; nothing breaks.

Nokia 5110 module

LCD pins

  • Pin order as printed on your module: 1 VCC, 2 GND, 3 SCE, 4 RST, 5 D/C, 6 DN (MOSI), 7 SCLK, 8 LED.
  • LED (backlight): wire it through a 330 Ω resistor to AB22 (3.3 V), with the resistor inline at the module end, sleeved. If it stays dark, move that wire to any free hole on strip AA (ground). GP22 (L27) stays free; it's only needed for dimming later, through a transistor.
  • SCE can go straight to ground instead of S27 if it's the only thing on the SPI bus. That frees GP17.

Encoder module

Encoder pins

Pin order as printed on your module: VCC, GND, SW, SIB, SIA. Power it from 3.3 V (AB4), never 5 V: its pull-up resistors would put 5 V on the Pico's pins. If clockwise steps the wrong way, swap SIA and SIB (or flip it in firmware).

Pots, SEED, RUN

Pots, SEED and RUN

  • Pots, lugs facing down, shaft toward you:
    • left lug to AGND (P25)
    • middle lug to its pin
    • right lug to 3.3 V (P24)
    • Chain the left lugs together and the right lugs together.
    • If the readings jitter, solder a 100 nF capacitor at each pot, from wiper to left lug.
  • SEED: one lug to P26, the other to the ground bus (P28).
  • RUN: middle lug to P27, one outer lug to the ground bus. If RUN and STOP come out swapped, use the other outer lug.

Build order and checks

Board

  1. Cut the board to 34 × 28 holes. For the top edge, cut through the row of holes above strip A, then sand it back to about 1.3 mm from the strip A holes, stopping before the strip A copper. That puts the Pico's edge flush with the board. Unsanded, the Pico sits about 1 mm back, which still works if the wall slot lets the plug's moulding through. Make the track cuts and beep each one out.
  2. Solder the two Pico headers and the DIP-8 socket (notch toward strip U). Then the resistors and the diode (band on V4).
    • Keep everything low, because the SEED button hangs right above R4. R4 lies flat along strip X, across the cut at X23.
    • R1's 3-hole span is tight for a ¼ W body, so stand R1 upright or use a small ⅛ W part.
    • Leave C1 for step 4.
  3. Solder the grey links with insulated wire. The two long ones (GP0 and GP4) run straight down under the Pico, between its two headers, so fit them before the Pico goes in.
  4. Before fitting C1, with the Pico and the 6N137 out, check that AB to AA does not beep and Z to AA does not beep. Then fit C1. It can chirp briefly on the beeper once it's in.

First power

  1. Plug in the Pico only and power it from USB. Measure AB to AA: about 3.3 V. Z to AA: about 5 V.
  2. Unplug, then insert the 6N137 (notch toward strip U, pin 1 at hole U5).
  3. Wire the panel. Before closing the box, check that no bare lugs touch each other.
  4. Flash the firmware. Set GP0 and GP4 to 8–12 mA drive (see pinout).